I finally completed my first ever Plus Bow as designed by Captain Slug. As this was my first attempt, I just followed his instructions. Modifications will come later when I am comfortable with the design.
I will not re-write Slug’s instructions here on how to build this, but rather point out a few details that I discovered while doing this project. For detailed instructions I suggest looking up Slug’s DIY +bow thread on NH.
For the parts needed on the project, I have to say that Slug did all the hard work. He made a list, with website link and part numbers. You can’t ask for a smoother time getting the pieces together. Use his list and his source I saved a whole lot of time, aggravation and money. However, Slug does skip lightly over a few items that you need that are not on that list from mcmaster:
Additional Items needed:
- Full sheet label paper for a printer
- Aluminum tape (not duct tape)
- Silicone lubricant
- Tap Wrench (list includes the bit, but not the wrench)
Couple of picks showing the trigger assembly and body:
Trigger and grip assembly.
Top view of trigger and grip assembly.
Body (without Trigger assembly)
Tips and Tricks to building a Plus BowI noticed throughout the write-up a few niggling inconsistencies that drove me nuts. They were not anything big that I couldn’t figure out, but they can cause confusion. I am in no way bashing Slug here, only pointing out a few items so that others won’t have to keep asking him the same questions over and over again. I will be referring to Slug’s instructions, link:
The instructions and for additional reading...
Slug’s +Bow Rev.2 NH Thread Here are some issues and how I dealt with them:
1. On Step Five, when you cut the grooves on the catch plate, make sure they are wide enough for the bolts to slide comfortably up and down the channels. The template has the two channels just a hair too narrow. Basically, the diameter of the pilot holes is the right size, just make sure the channel is the same. I used a flat file for little corrections after cutting.
2. Also on Step Five, again referring to the catch plate, Slug directs us to smooth and round the peg. I suggest keeping the spring handy during this process. It will tell you exactly how much the peg needs to be taken down to make the spring fit over it.
3. On Step Nine, Slug talks about sanding and cleaning up the edges. On the cross piece with the circle in the middle, be cautious on how much you take off. This piece needs to fit snugly inside the big clear tube. A good idea would be to have the clear tube at-hand to make sure you sand the cross piece to a nice firm fit. Don’t take too much off around the four drill holes. The drill holes are adequate for securing the piece later. If you sand too much here the piece will flop and not stay in-place.
4. On Step Ten, he says to tap “all the holes.” I believe all means "all." The four holes on the flat surface around the big center hole also need to be tapped. If you don’t the screws won’t get in properly later.
5. On Step Eleven, Slug says to use ¾” Long screws to attach the two pieces together with washers. Later, the cross piece will go between these screws. I think this was a typo; the ¾” screws are too short. Not only are they shorter than the ones in the picture (see Step Thirteen for a better view), but also, when assembled, there will not be enough thread to hold the cross piece. I think Slug meant a different length on this; I went with a 1 ¼” long screw which made my assembled unit look closer to Slug’s in the picture.
6. On Step Eighteen Slug says to use 5/16” screws. I confirmed with Slug that this was a typo, he meant to use the ¼” screws instead. You can use 3/8” screws to attach to the hex standoffs but not to attach the two pieces of polycarbonate at the top. The clear tube runs behind these and there is no hex standoff here. If your screw is too long it will puncture the tube, bad.
Additional hints: added 4/29/09
7. The screws used to secure the nylon rod are short in my opinion. The +bow experiences a lot and if you are not an expert at tapping holes you may find the screws coming loose from the nylon rod. My solution was to move from a 3/8" screw to a 3/4" screw. The effect worked and now I use the 3/4" screws exclusively with Nylon rod.
8. A potential failure point on the shell is up front where the bolt goes through the PVC bushing, the tube and the two forward panels. I found that the forward panels around those holes for the bolt were weak and could break. This can come from cutting them a hair to fine or from too much dry-firing your +bow (don't dry-fire your +bow by the way). My solution was to round the end and leave a little more material around the holes that the bolt goes through. We're only talking millimeters here but every little bit helps. See this photo:
photo link
Its a very small and unnoticeable change that can make a world of difference. I hope these hints take out some of the guess work for you. If anyone else has tips and things to watch out for post them here. Also check back as I will add some accessory items for the +bow when I finish them.
Front view
Top view
Generally speaking, the benefit of using polycarbonate as I see it is that if you mess up a piece you can just swap it out with a new one. You can't do that with a stock blaster, unless you go buy a whole new one for one replacement piece.
Going forward from here, my plan is to design some accessories that can be easily attached. I'll start with a slide breach, but may move on to integrations. So keep an eye out for future posts.
More to come.
